Oval Engagement Rings: What To Know About The Timeless Cut
Oval Engagement Rings: What To Know About The Timeless Cut
An oval engagement ring contains an elongated symmetrical cut diamond or gemstone, which is rounded and does not have pointed edges. This particular cut is appreciated for its ability to merge the fire of a round brilliant diamond and the effect of a thinner, longer finger.
What Are Modern Oval Engagement Rings?
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Oval engagement rings are elliptical in shape and utilise a unique cutting style with brilliant facets to maximise how light is captured and reflected. This cut has 57 to 58 facets, making it almost as brilliant as a round cut diamond, and offers a unique elongated look that has a greater surface area compared to its carat weight.
The oval-cut engagement ring has seen an uptick in demand in the UK jewellery market. This is in part because of the size illusion a stone creates, which offers an elongated look, which in turn offers a greater face-up size when compared to its round stone counterparts that weigh the same. Oval engagement rings are cherished as the cut gives the rings extra durability to be worn on a daily basis, as the design of the cut has no protruding corners that could snag on clothing, and no corners that could chip against other hard surfaces.
How Does the Oval Cut Compare to Other Shapes?
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The oval cut is classified as one of the “fancy shapes.” It is considered a hybrid shape between the classic round brilliant cut and the elongated marquise cut. It has the pug and brilliance of a round cut but gives a more sophisticated lengthening appearance to the hand, which many find more modern and chic.
Oval engagement rings are also more distinctive than other popular styles, such as the pear or the emerald cut. These rings are more dominant than these other styles. An emerald cut, which has a more “step cut” clarity, hall-of-mirrors appearance, and more subtle appeal, and a “brilliant cut” oval presents Feature Description Impacte” sparkles and brilliance. Oval diamond rings are also more valuable than round brilliant cut ones because more rough diamond is preserved. So, less cutting is required, creating less diamond “waste”.
Analysis of the "Bow-Tie Effect" in an Oval Diamond Ring
| Feature | Description | Impact on Quality |
|---|---|---|
| The Bow-Tie | A dark shadow across the centre of the stone. | Excessive darkness reduces brilliance. |
| Length-to-Width | The ratio of the stone's vertical vs horizontal span. | Affects the "slenderness" of the ring. |
| Symmetry | How well the facets and halves align. | Poor symmetry leads to "wonky" ovals. |
| Girdle Thickness | The edge where the top and bottom meet. | Protects the stone from chipping. |
What is the importance of the Length-to-Width Ratio?
Measuring the length-to-width ratio gives the physical outline of an oval-shaped diamond ring and helps determine if the stone is going to be “chubby” or look “narrow.” A ratio of 1.35 to 1.50 is suggested by most experts for a traditional appearance. However, modern preferences in the UK tend to favour more extended stones.
Choosing an oval diamond ring with a ratio less than 1.30 may result in the stone appearing too circular and compromising the finger-lengthening effect. On the other hand, a ratio greater than 1.55 could result in the stone appearing too thin, which may also impact the distribution of light and increase the prominence of the “bow-tie” shadow. When choosing an oval diamond ring, it is important to view the stone from a “top-down” perspective to ensure the curves appear graceful and balanced as opposed to looking “boxy” or “pointed.”
Is an Oval Cut Engagement Ring Better for Light Performance?
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Apart from round brilliant cuts, oval cut engagement rings can deliver the greatest levels of light performance. The facet arrangement of the engagement rings has been designed to yield maximum light reflectivity. As a result, the wearer may experience maximum levels of fire and scintillation (if positioned correctly).
There also exists the possibility of light leakage with oval cut engagement rings. If the cut of the stone is too shallow, light will pass through the bottom of the stone and not reflect back to the observer. This explains why UK buyers typically aim for a depth percentage of 58% to 62%. In practical terms, the well-proportioned oval cut engagement rings tend to conceal inclusions better than most cuts. This allows the wearer to select a stone with a lower clarity grade (e.g. SI1) and still have a stone that appears eye-clean to most people.
The UK Context: Ethical Sourcing and Sustainability
The UK jewellery sector has set market-leading standards in transparency and ethical practices. When UK customers buy oval engagement rings, they care not just about the 4Cs but also about the ethical sourcing of the stones.
· The Kimberley Process: This is the UK’s lowest benchmark for ensuring that natural diamonds are conflict-free.
· Lab-grown diamonds: There is a strong trend in London and Birmingham’s Jewellery Quarter for lab-grown, oval-cut engagement rings. These are fully sustainable alternatives to natural diamonds as they are just as expensive as good-quality natural diamonds.
· Recycled Metals: The environmentally conscious oval diamond ring wearers are well catered for by many UK artisans who use 100% recycled gold or platinum.
· Hallmarking: The metal used for the band of a sold engagement ring has to be of a certain quality. This is verified by a hallmark provided by an Assay Office in London, Birmingham, Sheffield, or Edinburgh.
Trends for Styling Your Oval Engagement Ring
To style your oval engagement ring, focus on a setting that protects the stone's edges, elongates the ring, and draws attention to its unique features. This is one ring where the solo settings stand out the most, letting the oval shape take the spotlight.
· The Halo Setting: A border of smaller diamonds around the centre stone can give the illusion that the centre is larger, and adds an element of vintage and glamour reminiscent of the “Great Gatsby” era.
· East-West Setting: Some people go for a more contemporary option by setting oval cut engagement rings and diamonds horizontally. This is a bold, avant-garde decision that departs from the customary practice of vertical disposals.
· Three Stone Rings: With an oval centre stone, paired with pear or round side stones, the look creates a lovely, tapered balance and transition into the band.
· Bezel Settings: For the most protection, a complete metal rim around the diamond will be your best bet. This is especially ideal for those in the UK with a more active lifestyle.
Guidelines for the Ideal Oval
If you would like the richest possible "fire" in your oval diamond ring, pay attention to these industry standards:
· Table Percentage: 53% to 63% (The flat top part of the diamond)
· Depth Percentage: 58% to 62% (The total height of the stone)
· Polish/Symmetry: Excellent or Very Good.
· Culet: None or Pointed (To avoid a "hole" appearance in the centre)
Understanding Colour and Clarity in the UK Market
When purchasing an oval engagement rings in the UK, the most common standard used is that of the Gemological Institute of America (GIA). Due to the shape of oval cuts, which have a large table, these diamonds can sometimes portray color more drastically than round cuts.
If you are planning to have your oval diamond ring set in platinum or white gold, we recommend choosing a color grade of G or higher so the diamond is set in an icy white color. On the other hand, if you prefer the rich hue of 18ct yellow gold (which is a very British thing to do), you can comfortably go for an I or J color grade. This not only saves you a significant amount of money but also gives a warm and rich color, which is very 'in' at the moment in the UK.
When considering the clarity of diamonds, oval cut engagement rings are quite good at covering up “feathers” or “clouds” due to the amazing pattern of facets in their structure. Most UK customers believe that the clarity grade of VS2 or SI1 is among the best in terms of cost and quality, and the inclusions are usually not visible unless you have a magnifying glass.
Conclusion: The Lasting Appeal of the Oval
Choosing an oval diamond ring means you can enjoy a perfect blend of timeless style and practical investment. Few other cuts can match the shape's combination of stunning sparkle and durability, as well as flattering sizing. If you consider the length-to-width ratio and the degree of the `bow-tie' effect (which slightly detracts from the diamond's beauty), it is low, you should have a diamond that is beautiful for years to come.
With the UK market evolving and accepting a mix of both classic natural stones and new lab-grown stones, oval cut engagement rings continue to lead the trends. This is an all-around safe choice for an engagement ring as they are seamlessly adaptable, and suit any lifestyle whether it is simple or extravagant.
Frequently Asked Questions (FAQ)
How do prices differ between oval and round diamond rings? ▼
As a general rule, oval diamond rings will be about 10- 25% less expensive than round diamond rings, assuming all other variables ( quality, size, etc.) are equal. This can actually be a good value, especially for UK customers, due to the lower diamond waste in the cutting process for ovals than for round diamonds, and therefore higher raw material usage for ovals and less expensive diamond rings for the same carats as round diamonds.
Is the bowtie effect always present in oval diamond rings? ▼
Most oval-cut diamonds do have a bowtie shadow, usually caused by the shadow effect of light leakage. In well-cut diamonds, these bowtie regions are usually present, but light leakage usually does not affect the visible light. The bowtie region will affect the overall light of the gemstone, especially in well-cut diamonds, so look for less dark bowtie areas that cause a distracting bowtie shadow.
Which metal do you recommend for an oval cut engagement ring in the UK? ▼
The best options are 18ct yellow gold and platinum. In addition to the classic feel that British customers really enjoy, yellow gold is a good match for the warm tones of an oval diamond ring. But for vintage styles, yellow gold really complements the design. With a yellow gold vintage oval diamond design, you will have the best complement of warmer design and yellow gold metal for the warmer tones of the vintage oval diamond. The best complement of gold metal can be used for vintage style oval rings while platinum is used for warm vintage styles. That being said, platinum and 18ct gold are Victorian preferences that are best match for the warm diamond of the empire.
Do oval rings make fingers look longer? ▼
The answer is yes, oval engagement rings are longer than other ring shapes and therefore make fingers look longer and more slender. This is one of the reasons oval diamond rings are a classic flattering choice.
Are oval engagement rings suitable for everyday wear? ▼
Definitely. Compared to say a pear or marquise shape ring, an oval engagement ring is less likely to snag and chip on a daily basis with rounded and smooth edges. So an oval diamond ring will stay looking new and stunning for years and years of daily wear.
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